Oasis Cruising Notes - Tobago Anchorages

Update: Tobago Anchorages			.

	After clearing in to customs and immigration in Scarborough, we visited the lively marketplace. Clearly there is not a lot of wealth in general in Tobago, with fishing being the main industry, and fresh produce is available at reasonable prices. The fresh fish was the best bargain of the day - we bought a whole tuna, weighing about 5 lbs, for the equivalent of less than £5.00, and it was really fresh and delicious. We stocked up on eggs, bacon and bread at the supermarket, a somewhat old-fashioned shop, crowded with Saturday shoppers. We then departed the very rolly anchorage and made our way around Crown Point, accompanied by bottle nosed dolphins, to Store Bay, where we met up with Arnold & Brenda.
Conditions at Store Bay were also rather rolly, and so we moved on up to Pigeon Point, which is protected by Buccoo Reef, and mostly much calmer. There we made use of the facilities of the Beach Resort for a small charge and met up with A & B most days for lunch and snorkelling. Using our bicycles we were able to get to a good sized supermarket (Penny Saver's, on the road to Scarborough), and to access the internet at the same time as doing the laundry at the marvellous Clothes Wash Cafe (behind Store Bay). After A & B returned home, we started our cruise up the north coast of Tobago, stopping at a number of idyllic anchorages along the way. Right: Brenda & Arnold with the palm finged beach of Pigeon Point and the turquoise waters of Buccoo Reef
With the wind moving round to the south east, we decided to take the opportunity to head north again, and sadly left Tobago behind us, before we had done any diving. We will be back one day to dive with the manta rays and to relax in this delightful island with her friendly people

Tobago Anchorages
	Mount Irvine Bay
		We spent a couple of nights here, with very few other yachts, anchored outside of the fishing boats. Ashore, we walked up the coast, stopping at the Ocean View bar, to the Grafton Caledonia Bird & Wildlife Sanctuary, where we enjoyed the beautifully peaceful forest walk and were then rewarded by the sight of many birds coming in to feed in the evening - blue crowned Mot Mots, Cocricos, tanagers, doves, hummingbirds and others
	Great Courland Bay
		This beautiful bay is fringed by a broad stretch of white sand and palm trees. We were a little too early to see the leatherback turtles nesting, but we enjoyed being the only yacht in the anchorage. We went ashore to see the small town of Plymouth with the ruins of a fort and a mystery tomb. One morning we were politely awoken by a fisherman who needed us to move so that they could bring in their seine net
	Castara Bay
	We anchored here with the expectation of getting a good roti for lunch in the village (according to Doyle's cruising guide), but the Golden Palace seemed to have gone into retirement, and the Cascreole restaurant on stilts over the beach was closed, so we had lunch onboard and then moved on.
	Englishman's Bay
		We had this delightful bay to ourselves for a couple of nights, before being joined by Derek and Gill on Ginseng. The snorkelling along the edge of the bay was superb, with a great variety of fish, corals and sponges. We also had a great chicken roti at Kenny & Eula's cafe on the beach. The bay is backed by stands of giant bamboo and tropical plants. Being accessible only by a small dirt road, there are only small numbers of day visitors. There was a little swell, and we deployed the flopper-stopper to good effect.
	Man O'War Bay (Pirate's Bay)
		This large, deep, well protected bay is the home of Tobago's largest fishing fleet, which operate out of Charlotteville. Another great place to buy fresh fish, so another tuna to share with Ginseng and their cats, Cocos and Keeling. Also good home baked bread and fresh fruits and veggies available at the roadside stalls. Here we hired a car and travelled the south east side of the island back to Scarborough, to do the laundry, get our dive tanks filled, buy provisions and clear out from customs & immigration.

PICTURE GALLERY 1

Above: Views from the Ocean View bar - left: Rocky Point right: towards Stonehaven and Grafton Bays

Above left: many of the trees are pretty with blossom in March Above right: just when you thought you had left civilization behind....

Above left: cannons on the ruins of Fort James at Plymouth, overlooking Oasis in Great Courland Bay Above right: B repairing our sailing awning

PICTURE GALLERY 2

Above: sunset from Great Courland Bay. The colours reflected in the water were exquisite

Above: Englishman's Bay - top left: Kenny & Eula's beachside cafe, right: giant bamboo with the tiny figure of B alongside


Views from our island tour - top left: St Giles Island off the northernmost tip, top right: Goat Island and Little Tobago, bottom left: Anse Bateau Bay, bottom right: Tyrell's Bay, Speyside