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Update: May 2001 - Passage South through the Windwards
Leaving Les Saintes on 4th May, we worked our way back south again. We spent a couple of nights anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, and then a few days in Roseau. This time the anchorage was very rolly, and we deployed both flopper stoppers, which made a marked difference. Whilst swimming around the boat, Graham complained that he had been stung. Following the advice in The Boater's Medical Companion, we washed the area with sea water, applied alcohol, then talcum powder and scraped the skin to remove any remaining stinging cells, then washed with fresh water. The next morning as we were leaving, we saw a Portuguese Man-of-War jellyfish, which was no doubt responsible. Fortunately Graham's injury was only slight, but we warned the other cruisers to be on their guard.
We had a fine sail down to Ste Anne, Martinique, seeing both pilot whales and dolphins after rounding the headland near Diamond Rock. After a couple of days in Martinique to reprovision we enjoyed the sail to St Lucia, where we anchored in the lagoon at Rodney Bay alongside another Tayana 37, Hand Basket. We had previously met Jim in Marin. After clearing customs we moved out of the Lagoon and anchored just off Pigeon Island, where we went ashore to visit the museum. Sadly their multimedia display of the Battle of the Saintes was not functioning.

Right: Hand Basket at anchor in Rodney Bay lagoon

Later we headed out under sail and went to Marigot Bay where we had spent our honeymoon in 1996. We  anchored opposite the Marigot Beach Club and Doolittle's Restaurant  and went there for a very tasty fish dinner (Mahi Mahi in crispy batter with french fries, 25EC). We were sorry to see that the Hurricane Hole Hotel, where we used to enjoy Happy Hour, has closed, but Chateau Mygo (formerly Mama Sheila's) is now a very fine looking restaurant. We bought some rotis there to eat for lunch later, as we were once more moving south, this time to Soufriere.

Left: Marigot Beach Club and Doolittle's Restaurant

The visibility was not too good as we neared the Pitons and we picked up a mooring near the Hummingbird Restaurant. We went snorkelling and saw lots of fish but got surrounded by loads of one eyed jellyfish, that seemed to get everywhere - even inside my swimsuit, ugh! Fortunately they didn't sting. We left the mooring at midnight to continue our journey. Sailing through the night, we passed St Vincent and made our next landfall in Admiralty Bay, Bequia, where we anchored near the Green Boley restaurant

Right: looking south to the stunning landmark of the Pitons

We took a few days to enjoy Port Elizabeth, which is absolutely charming and filled with interesting boutiques, good restaurants and a useful variety of chandlers and ship's services. The exhaust elbow neeeded repairing, so we took it to Mr Fixman (Peter). We had a good evening at the Frangipani for their regular Thursday night BBQ and Jump Up, and enjoyed a pizza at Mac's, a roti at the Green Boley, and some of Maranne's tasty ice cream. At Wallace's we bemoaned the fact that we have not yet caught a fish, so we stocked up on new fishing tackle - we'll see .....

Left: Admiralty Bay, Bequia

We left Bequia early on 22nd May in light rain and with 20 knots of wind from slightly South of East arrived in the Tobago Cays by lunchtime. As the sun returned the colours of the water seemed almost unbelievable. It is impossible to resist the temptation to dive right in, and we had a good snorkel on the horseshoe reef. Next morning we made our way to Clifton, Union Island, where we cleared out of St Vincent & the Grenadines.

Right: view from the Tobago Cays

Then it was back to Carriacou, to get the laundry done (at the Carriacou Yacht Club, 30EC per load washed, dried and folded) and get up to date at the internet cafe (Sea Blast, 5EC for 15 minutes). We discovered the excellent new Pizzeria at the Turtle Dove, run by two young Italian girls, where we had the best pizza in the Windwards. We also were delighted to see another Green Flash at sunset!

Left: We often have lone seabirds flying nearby, but in Bequia these seagulls were keen to show off their agility in catching scraps

We got our fishing tackle out for the journey to Grenada, but even with our new lures we had no luck- the only thing we caught was each other's lines! 

We spent the last few days of May in Prickly Bay, where we got our propane tank refilled (47EC for 20lbs), before heading south to Trinidad, where Oasis would be kept during the hurricane season.

Left: both flopper-stoppers deployed in Roseau, Dominica   Right: crowded Rodney Bay lagoon, St Lucia
Below: Palm trees in Marigot Bay, St Lucia
Left, right, below: views from the Belmont walkway along the front of Port Elizabeth in Bequia
Left and right: the turquoise waters of the Grenadines

All photographs © Graham Berry 2001. All images have been size reduced and compressed. High quality digital images available by arrangement.

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